August 9, 2020, San Juan de los Terreros
Before we go public with our conversations, I would like to thank you for the idea of taking over the Leandra Medine-inspired email conversations for GREENSTYLE. For both of us, this type of conversation is really useful, as we not only have an incredible amount to say to each other, but are also always interested in the opinion of the other. We also live in different countries. Even though we can now meet more often again for creative work meetings, short emails to exchange ideas and / or initiate ideas are still a wonderful form of communication.
Just say thank you.
At this point I would like to take the opportunity to write a few words about you. Many know you as the moderator of our conference topics of the 3rd edition as well as the virtual Conference, which, thanks to your support, we put online in mid-March after the failed 4th edition.
How do we know each other?
At the 2nd edition we didn’t have anyone who took over our moderation. I had to take on many topics myself, or at least the introductions. Whenever I was on the conference stage, I noticed a couple in the front rows who didn’t miss a single topic. You spoke to me on the last day. Not only has a professional relationship developed from this, but a real friendship that leads us to Bolzano again and again and for which I would like to thank. You are a real asset.
13. August, San Juan de los Terreros
#1 Bottom up or top down: Denim-Patchwork goes Dior
From an old tradition I like to read the fashion news on vogue.de. Even though I’ve been dealing with sustainable fashion for a number of years, I’m still interested in Gucci, Dior & Co. Quite apart from the fact that it helps me when I can put topics into the larger context. I recently stumbled upon the topic of “Patchwork Denim in the Dior Cruise Collection”.
The big theme of the collection is a homage to the craftsmanship that Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates on the big stage. Some looks are dedicated to upcycling. It’s really exciting that Dior is now dealing with a topic that has long been established in sustainable fashion. Keyword: Dzaino, Bridge & Tunnel. Plus: (patchwork denim).
And so I ask myself: did the big fashion houses understand that our resources are limited? That we have to rethink. Close loops? Does it help that a fashion house with such a great radiance makes the topic tangible for the mainstream? Or is that a classic case of greenwashing? What do you mean, Susanne?
Best regards to Bolzano,
Bolzano, August 16, 2020
Your questions occupy me and probably many others very much. And the answers to this are probably decisive whether the fashion industry really becomes more sustainable and fairer. It won’t work without the big fashion houses. As you say, they have charisma and this charisma can be used. It will not be enough that materials such as organic cotton or Tencel or Appleskin are used in a collection from time to time, that Up- or Recycling–practices are used for individual parts or that craftsmanship is celebrated. Without changing the business model, which has so far relied on more and more consumption, more collections, etc., it won’t work. Still, I think it’s a start. And what is currently primarily greenwashing could perhaps become more in the foreseeable future and move in the direction of a serious change. In any case, I can imagine the challenges for the brands are huge, the complexity of the production chains is often difficult to grasp, but I think they (almost) all understand that things cannot go on like this.
Giorgio Armani has already announced that he only wants to limit himself to two collections per year. Vivienne Westwood, Gabriela Hearst and Stella McCartney show that there is another way in high fashion.
To have to forego the creativity, style and craftsmanship of the big houses would be a great loss. Because even today it is brands like Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, you name it, who, at least stylistically, always present great things. A friend told me yesterday that sustainable fashion is still not enough for her. What do you think about that? Has anything changed here? Is sustainable fashion already clearly emerging from the basic area? Or is that perhaps also contradicting each other? Fashion, trends and sustainability?