Normally, after the half-yearly fashion carousel, I always share my insights from the various trade fairs. This time I feel like I have to approach the topic differently. Step by step and city by city. The new season started for me at Berlin Fashion Week.
Berlin seems to be self-sufficient: Berlin for the Berliners. It seems to be self-sufficient. It doesn’t need to rely on international appeal. It doesn’t rely on big buyers here. That’s a good thing, because they aren’t currently traveling here either. The CEO of a German luxury online shop confirmed this to me a few weeks ago, because they find what they are looking for mainly in the increasingly powerful Paris. Berlin rejects commercialism. And – quote – that’s not what this is about. 95 percent of the shows are not commercial. Rather experimental. In food courts, department stores, etc. A pretty luxurious attitude that you have to be able to afford. And that’s exactly what distinguishes the capital from other fashion locations. Here, fashion is subsidized. By the Berlin Senate. And you can afford it. This attitude.
The hyped Berlin PR agency Reference Studios sees things very differently from me. In an interview with FashionUnited, agency founder Mumi Haiati explains: “Intervention (note: the agency’s new show format), but also Berlin Fashion Week as a whole, is taking more shape. It has a stronger and clearer identity. We are on the right track. The feedback from the international press was also totally positive. People are talking about a new London and we were very pleased about that.” Let’s hope that Mumi is right and that after the long downturn, BER will once again experience an upward trend with its own identity. And maybe a little joy in the commercial side too. If you can buy and wear the collections, the names of the designers will then perhaps be known beyond the city limits. And: they could then perhaps make a living from their work.
My 4 highlights from 4 days in Berlin:
Exposition: Der Berliner Salon in the Bode-Museum
We were at the Berlin Salon in the Bode Museum. Fashion in the Bode Museum. What a beautiful idea. What a wonderful implementation. The juxtaposition of young designers and the centuries-long collections in the Bode Museum as part of the group exhibition of the Berlin Salon (Highlights of Winter) shows continuity as well as innovations in fashion and art history. Fashion, jewelry, accessories, product design were so cleverly integrated into the exhibition that – had you not come for these young designers – you would not have really noticed that it was a snapshot lasting only a few days in this venerable house on Museum Island. The fact that these very different works communicate with each other was also the intention of curator Christiane Arp. The Berlin Salon was complemented by the seven finalists of the Vogue Fashion Fund.
Fashionshow: Avenir
I’ve had Sophie Claussen and her upcycling label Avenir on my radar since they were founded in 2020. Apart from the fact that Sophie is an incredibly inspiring personality, I think her label and the way she translates sustainability into design is fantastic. Avenir has undergone an incredible development. And with a change of perspective at the BFW, she hit the nail on the head again. Instead of a show behind closed doors, she showed her Spring/Summer 25 collection COMMUTE between the shopping center and the Cinemaxx at Potsdamer Platz. She turned the street into a runway and gave all passers-by the opportunity to take part and discover her fashion. On display were elaborate denim patchwork designs on tailored denim blazers and a fresh palette of pastel shades such as mint, green, yellow, lavender and cream. Power shoulders, oversized blazers, hand-knitted jumpers (made from seven pairs of jeans cut into strips), transparent blouses… Wonderful.
20 years of Kilian Kerner // Anniversary show
Kilian Kerner founded his eponymous label in 2004. And I’ve been following him for almost as long: I was there at one of his shoots in Berlin many years ago. He gave me Bibi Blocksberg shirts from his jersey collection for my daughters. I was at his shows (almost!) all the time. He has now been a fashion designer for 20 years. That is truly a reason to celebrate. With the anniversary show during Berlin Fashion Week at the beginning of July in the Uber Eats Music Hall, he showed once again that – despite all the doom and gloom he had to endure at the beginning of his career – he knows what he’s doing and that he knows a craft.
A must-watch: the 50-minute short documentary: “The Fashion Maker: 20 Years of Kilian Kerner”. A journey through 20 years with Kilian as a person and in the fashion world. With ups and downs. From the beginning to high-fashion designer. From Berlin Moabit to the shop window in New York and to the red carpets of Los Angeles.
40 years Thomas Sabo // China Club
And we were able to be part of another anniversary: the jewelry and watch brand Thomas Sabo from Lauf an der Pegnitz celebrated its 40th anniversary during Fashion Week. What a wonderful atmosphere and away from the usual hustle and bustle. Again in the wonderful China Club. With friends of the brand, influencers, media. With delicious food, an XL birthday cake in black (unfortunately we couldn’t stay until it was cut). And of course with the anniversary collection Rebellious Glam, which embodies Thomas Sabo’s unique rebel at heart style.
Available since 31.7.2024 >>>
