Significantly smaller – without measuring – and with a noticeably quiet atmosphere. The topic of Ukraine was (and still is) very present. But – and that was the consistent message – the Berlin Fashion Week took place and repeatedly set signs of solidarity. With speeches and speeches, with gestures, with calls for donations, with strong final pictures in PEACE hoodies (thanks, Kilian) and above all with the solidarity of 20 fantastic volunteers (thanks Cherie & Community), who within ten days created the collection of the Ukrainian designer Jean Gritsfeldt sewed to give him the opportunity to use the Berlin runway as a mouthpiece.
All autumn/winter 2022 shows and talks were presented digitally via @mbfw.berlin präsentiert – GREENSTYLE accompanied the MBFW on @greenstyle_muc.
+++ Berlin Fashion Week Highlights +++
Der Berliner Salon
The Fashion Week was opened with 31 German designers from the disciplines of fashion, jewelery and accessories. The works of the show curated by Christiane Arp were presented on luminous displays in the power plant in Mitte, the central show location of the MBFW. Our highlights? The upcycling dress made from tubular tires by Karen Jessen, the androgynous business wear by Julia Leifert and the black in black pieces by Esther Perbandt. The sustainable knitwear collection by Sminfinity, the couture headwear by Fiona Bennett, the surprisingly different pieces by Odeeh, 10 outfits to wear often at OFTT, the zero waste upcycling looks by Avenir…
Opening Reception @ Kraftwerk
After the ceremonial opening by Berlin’s Governing Mayor Franziska Giffey, who received thunderous applause for her speech on the importance of fashion also – and especially IN – these times, everything in the power plant on Köpenicker Straße revolved around the runway shows for three days.
Fashion is always political. Franziska Giffey.
Opening Party: Studio2Retail x PLATTE.look
Das Publikum draußen vor den XL-Schaufenstern. Die Models auf Laufbändern dahinter. Das PLATTE.Berlin Team rund um Sevil Uguz eröffnete gemeinsam mit dem Fashion Council Germany mit einer ebenso diversen wie inklusiven Fashionshow die die Studio2Retail >>> Woche. Der Claim? #fashionunites. Unbedingt ansehen: Die Jobbörse Bettter >>> (für ukrainische Geflüchtete aus der Kreativwirtschaft). Mehr zur Platte >>>
The audience outside in front of the XL shop windows. The models on treadmills behind. The PLATTE.Berlin team around Sevil Uguz opened the Studio2Retail >>> week together with the Fashion Council Germany with a fashion show that was as diverse as it was inclusive. The claim? #fashionunites. Must see: The Bettter >>> job exchange (for Ukrainian refugees from the creative industries). More about Platte >>>
Mercedes-Benz presents Sofia Ilmonen
In the old tradition – which began a few years ago in cooperation with ELLE magazine – the show will be kicked off by an upcoming designer. The selection process is promising: This is the winner of the fashion festival in Hyères, France. There, the Finn Sofia Ilmonen was able to convince the jury with her modular collection. For two years she researched and experimented at Aaalto University as part of her master’s degree until she found a way to combine her love of design with the desire for fashion to be circular. Her dresses, which are as delicate as they are intensely colored, are designed in such a way that they can take on a new shape at any time. To do this, she works with square pieces of fabric that can be linked together seamlessly (!) using a button and loop principle. More informations >>>
Fashion Open Studio
From March 15th to 17th, a series of open studios, short films, exhibitions and talks with an innovative group of local and international designers were presented for the third time during Berlin Fashion Week as part of Fashion Open Studio by Fashion Revolution. With this format, a space was created for dialogue and the exchange of ideas and information to change the way we think about our clothes and show practical solutions. All participants and events >>>
Love Child by Marcel Ostertag
In addition to models, Marcel Ostertag also shows his muses, girlfriends and customers trouser suits, slip dresses, swinging flounced hems, mini, midi and maxi skirts as well as floral and graphic prints in shades of red, green, yellow and blue. Marcel Ostertag, who – typical Marcel – does not stick to conventions, came onto the runway before the show to send his opinion on the Putin war to the world. With this collection he wanted to show and give love. And we’re happy to give it back to him. Thanks for this trip out of reality… Welcome to the Marcel Ostertag universe >>>
Kilian Kerner – “Claudette & Rico – A love between moon and asphalt“
With his collection, Kilian Kerner breaks with clichés and shows that femininity is a state of mind and cannot be limited to common definitions. The designer even wrote his own screenplay for this collection. On the catwalk: padded oversize jackets, floor-length (transparent) evening dresses, mermaid dresses with corsets, trouser suits for men and women. But THE breathless moment were the final pictures. Instead of showing all looks again, his models, like the designer himself, wore black XL hoodies with white PEACE lettering over their outfits. You can order them in the online shop for 69 euros until March 30th. The profit will be donated to Ukraine within the organization “A Heart for Children”. Order here >>>
L’Atelier Dream Machine by Esther Perbandt
The collection by Berlin designer Esther Perbandt was no longer completely black in black. Silk-linen, jacquard fabrics, leather, wool sculpted, accentuated waists, cuts and shoulders. XL prints with gears that – as the title suggests – run through the collection like a red, pardon me, white thread. Voluminous, gathered sleeves, sophisticated cut-outs, short strap dresses and layered tulle skirts sent Esther Perbandt down the runway in slow motion just as much as high-waist trousers, proving once again that she has mastered the fine art of construction. More about Esther Perbandt >>>
Jean Gritsfeldt: “Earth is a cradle of love for a new world without war”
The absolute highlight of the fashion week – I think everyone agrees – was Jean Gritsfeldt’s show. The Ukrainian designer from Kyiv could not take part in the MBFW, could not send his collection. On the initiative of Cherie Birkner from Sustainable Fashion Matterz and Fashion Revolution Germany, 20 volunteers (including Verena Paul Benz from Lovjoi and Arianna Nicoletti from Green Fashion Tours and A-gain) sewed his collection in just 10 days according to his specifications and sketches. Made of leftovers and stamped with statements such as Peace, Humanity, Poetry and of course Ukraine. And to use his words:
“Today is not the time to talk about fashion, but through fashion. Today we will not show the new season, today we do not show new looks because when you sit in a bomb shelter, or a dugout, or basement nobody cares what you wear. The main thing is to feel warm, comfortable and protected.
Today we broadcast the Feelings and Sensations. Fashion is not a reflection of today, it always looks to the future for the years ahead … destiny and our awareness decide whether there will be war tomorrow, or not in the world which we live in.”
Fireside Chat by Fashion Council Germany
Finally a fireside chat with a crackling fireplace. At the industry meeting in “Grace”, the eight winners of the FASHION X CRAFT funding project of the Fashion Council Germany in partnership with the Swarovski Foundation and The Prince’s Foundation were presented during Berlin Fashion Week. For three months, they will receive a tailor-made support program that focuses on showing new ways of craftsmanship, strengthening innovative approaches, experiencing sustainable methods and bringing them closer to working with sustainable materials. All information from the FCG >>>